540km · 19 days · Everything for £10, no subscription by Tomie's Cuisine A field guide by Tomie's Cuisine Get the bundle →
中山道 十九日間の旅 京都から東京

GPX Track Pack · Hotels Guide · 19 days · 540+ km

Walk the Nakasendo, self-guided.

中山道 · 京都 から 東京

A field guide by Tomie's Cuisine. 540km, Kyoto to Tokyo, walked in early spring — at your own pace.

540+ kilometres
19 days
69 post towns
7 prefectures
Most popular · £10 one-off
£10 no subscription

Every GPX track, the full accommodation guide, and a downloadable PDF field guide — instantly.

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What's included

🗺️
Instant access to 21 GPX track filesOne file for each day, and another for the whole journey, load them into any hiking app or GPS device
🏠
Complete accommodation guideHonest reviews of every place we stayed, 20 nights, plus alternatives
📝
Day-by-day blog seriesFree for all subscribers, published as we write them
💾
PDF field guide NEWThe whole guide, downloadable, read offline on the trail

Everything you need to plan your own Nakasendo journey

The Nakasendo is Japan's historic mountain highway — an historical alternative to the shinkansen that takes you through 69 ancient post towns, mountain passes, and rural villages that most tourists never see.

You do not need to walk all 540km to experience the Nakasendo. The Kiso Valley section — passing through Magome, Tsumago, and the mountain villages of Nagano — is one of the most scenic and historically intact stretches of trail in Japan, and accessible as a multi-day trip from Tokyo or Nagoya. Our accommodation guide and GPX files cover this section in full.

The complete 19-day route

  • Kyoto → Kusatsu 京都·草津
    Kyoto → Shiga
    ~24 km
  • Kusatsu → Echigawa 愛知川 ~32 km
  • Echigawa → Kashiwabara 柏原 ~34 km
  • Kashiwabara → Akasaka 赤坂
    Shiga → Gifu
    ~21 km
  • Akasaka → Kano加納 ~22 km
  • Kano → Magome 馬籠 Days 6-10
  • Magome → Suhara 須原
    Gifu → Nagano
    29.1 km
  • Through Nagano 長野 Days 11–16
  • Karuizawa → Honjo 本庄
    Nagano → Gunma → Saitama
    Days 17–19
  • Fukaya → Nihonbashi 日本橋
    Tokyo · by bicycle
    ~84 km

Common questions

What exactly is a GPX track?

Think of it like Google Maps, but for hiking. Instead of directions to a restaurant, it shows you the exact path we walked. Every turn, every post town, every shortcut. Open it in any free hiking app like Garmin, AllTrails, or Komoot, or your GPS watch, and a line appears on your map. You can also load it in Google Maps in the "My Maps" section, and it will appear in the Google Maps app. Your phone shows you where you are on that path in real time, so you always know if you're on track. No signal needed!

What do I need to use these files?

Your smartphone will do! Download a free app like AllTrails or Komoot open the file we send you, and the route appears. If you have a Garmin watch or similar GPS device, it works there too. Alternatively, you can use a standalone GPS device if you have one and load it there as well; there is no limit on how many devices you can load it on.

Can I edit the GPX files?

Yes, you can edit these on your app of choice. If you decide to walk less, visit a different museum, etc., you can add these points to your map.

How many accommodations are covered in the guide?

In total, there are 19 different accommodations, as on day 5 and 6 , we stayed at the same hotel. However, we provided plenty of alternative hotels, should one not be available to book, or you decided to change the route.

Does the guide cover the full route from Kyoto to Tokyo?

Yes, it covers the entire journey from Kyoto to Tokyo, so even if you're not exactly following the Nakasendo, it'll provide some great options to discover the Japanese countryside.

Is this a sponsored guide or are the reviews genuinely independent?

No, this guide is solely based on our own research. We may potentially earn a commission via Opodo if there's a eligible booking, but that's it.

Are there any cash-only accommodations?

Yes, some are cash only, but we've clearly labelled them and given you the price in advance, so you can prepare for it.

About the journey

A 540 km road through a thousand years of Japanese history

The Nakasendo (中山道) was one of Japan's five great highways of the Edo period, threading through mountains and valleys between Tokyo and Kyoto. Unlike the coastal Tokaido, it stayed inland — quieter, more rugged, more beautiful.

We walked it in March and April 2025, starting at dawn from Kyoto's Sanjo Ohashi bridge and finishing 19 days later in Tokyo. Along the way we crossed seven prefectures, stood on the Battle of Sekigahara battlefield, sheltered from mountain rain in 400-year-old post towns, and ate more ichigo daifuku than we care to admit.

This site is where we document all of it — practically, honestly, and with enough detail that you can do it yourself. Browse all published days on Tomie's Cuisine.

Get notified when 9–19 publish

Free subscribers get each daily report + GPX track as we publish them. No catch.

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Choose how deep you want to go

The GPX tracks and daily blog posts are free. Want the full planning toolkit in one go, no subscription? Grab the bundle. Want everything we publish as it becomes available? Become a member.

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The essentials

  • Day-by-day blog posts
  • GPX tracks as we publish the articles
  • Season and weather guide as we publish the articles

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Most popular

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Nakasendo bundle

  • Everything in free
  • Full 19-day accommodation guide covering the area between Kyoto and Tokyo
  • Booking links and alternatives
  • Instant access to all the GPX tracks
  • + Complete field guide as a downloadable PDF
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The complete planner

  • Everything in the bundle
  • Ongoing member content
  • Packing list (coming soon)
  • Train logistics (coming soon)
  • Prefecture food guide (coming soon)
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We wanted to allow enough time to explore and visit some museums, or enjoy food at a local restaurant — which turned out to be the right decision.

— Hitomi & Kevin, Tomie's Cuisine

Standing at the Shiga–Gifu border, it's easy to imagine voices drifting across that small gap in the rain.

— Day 4, Ne-monogatari no sato

He told us that he saw us arrive and came out to light the lantern for us.

— Day 2, Musa post town

It was as if our mum cooked for us — an absolute comfort food.

— Day 3, Aina Shokudo

Inside the member budget tracker

¥ Daily spend logs for all 19 days
🏨 Actual hotel prices + booking notes
🚃 Train fares for each return journey
🍱 Food costs by prefecture
📊 Total trip budget with breakdown

Free tracks, or everything right now.

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